Food and recipes

 

A delicious history of gingerbread

Lots of people enjoy gingerbread, and at Christmas some even make beautifully decorated houses from this baked treat. But have we always eaten gingerbread at Christmas time?

Luckily, food historian Sam Bilton is here to take us on a tasty journey back in time to find out...

Image: Medieval cooking pots and spices

What is gingerbread?

This may seem like an obvious question. After all, ginger biscuit people are a familiar sight in supermarkets and coffee shops around the country. However, one of the earliest English recipes for gingerbread (written in the fifteenth century) contains no ginger at all.

Another key difference from modern day gingerbread is that the medieval variety was made with honey and breadcrumbs. These were mixed with saffron and pepper to form a stiff paste, which was formed into a square, sprinkled with cinnamon, and decorated with box leaves secured with cloves. Sometimes it was also coloured red by adding sanders, the finely ground bark of the red sandalwood tree. Later recipes even include liquorice and red wine.

Image: Cinnamon sticks

Something to comfort the stomach

Spices were incredibly costly (saffron is still known as the most expensive spice in the world). Serving generously spiced food to guests, perhaps sprinkled with cinnamon (pictured) too, was a way to demonstrate your wealth. And what better way to showcase a whole collection of spices than in gingerbread?

Medieval gingerbread was not just about showing off to your guests, it also had a practical purpose at feasts. Gingerbread was well known for helping with digestion – it was served at the end of a meal to help dinner 'go down' and to sweeten the breath.  In the Elizabethan era, gingerbread was described as ‘a kind of cake or paste made to comfort the stomach’ (it was also believed to improve eyesight and stop you from breaking wind!).

Image: Theriac Jar
Albarello vase for theriac, Italy, 1641. Science Museum, London. Attribution 4.0 International (CC BY 4.0)

The cure for a venomous bite

By the 17th century gingerbread looked more familiar.  The breadcrumbs were replaced by wheat flour and honey would gradually be phased out when an alternative sweetener became widely available.

More and more sugar was grown, refined and imported into Europe during the 17th and 18th centuries, and it became cheaper too. (These low prices had a high human cost – they were largely because of the expansion of Caribbean plantations, and the exploitation of the enslaved Africans forced to work on them.)

One by-product of the sugar-refining process was a thick, dark, bittersweet liquid. The name ‘triacle’ or ‘theriaca’ was originally given to a honey-infused medicine for venomous bites and poisons. But this new cheap product began to replace the honey, and it became known as ‘common treacle’. Eventually, so much treacle was being produced that cooks found tasty non-medical uses for it – and it found its way into gingerbread.

Image: Victorian carousel at Osborne

All the fun of the fair

As the cost of sugar and treacle came down more people could afford to buy sweets like gingerbread. However, it was still considered a treat to be eaten on special occasions. Gingerbread was particularly associated with fairs and it was thought to be good luck to eat a piece bought from there.

Known as ‘fairings’, these gingerbreads were moulded into different shapes and were often decorated with Dutch gold (a mixture of copper and zinc which looks like real gold). One popular design was the gingerbread alphabet block known as a hornbook. Gingerbread hornbooks had the benefit of being both educational and providing a delicious incentive for pupils to learn their letters – each one correctly memorised could be nibbled away.

Gingerbread kings and queens were also desirable but occasionally the moulded figures could be more unusual. One particular example features a chicken wearing trousers! We don’t know why gingerbread was made in this shape, because the relevance of this edible ‘toy’ has been lost in time.

Image: Portrait of Queen Victoria's pet dog, Dash

A very merry gingerbread

Given gingerbread’s connection to festive occasions like fairs it is perhaps not surprising that it should eventually become associated with Christmas. The future Queen Victoria even gave her beloved King Charles Spaniel, Dash, ‘two bits of gingerbread surrounded with branches of holly and candles’ for Christmas in 1833. Later during Queen Victoria’s reign, her husband, Prince Albert, would dress up as Saint Nicholas and give his children gingerbread and apples for being good during the year.

Tchaikovsky’s ballet The Nutcracker has frequently featured as Christmas entertainment since it was composed in 1892. The tale is loosely based on the E.T.A. Hoffmann fantasy story The Nutcracker and the Mouse King. It features a girl who makes friends with a nutcracker that comes to life on Christmas Eve. Together with some gingerbread soldiers, the Nutcracker wages a battle against the evil Mouse King and his army.

Image: A boy and a girl decorate a gingerbread house

A house to nibble on

Today the ultimate Christmas creation is the gingerbread house. It has been suggested that these edible structures originated in Germany between the sixteenth and eighteenth centuries. The house in the fairytale Hansel and Gretel written by the Brothers Grimm in 1812 is often said to be made from gingerbread. However, in the original story the house was actually made from bread, with a cake roof and sugar windows.

In the 1960s a German author called Hans Traxler claimed to have discovered the true story behind Hansel and Gretel, which he revealed in a book. Traxler said he had found some notes from an amateur archaeologist called Georg Ossegg, who claimed to have discovered the burnt foundations of the real house, and a small tin box containing the famous recipe. But sadly, it wasn’t true. Traxler, a children’s author, had made the whole story up including the character of Ossegg. The recipe, however, was real. Traxler had copied it from a Dr Oetker cookbook!

Image: a family make gingerbread together

Make your own gingerbread treats

Now you've discovered the story of gingerbread, why not have a go at making your own, with Sam's easy-to-follow recipe. 

Sam says,

This dough is ideal for making gingerbread men or animals. If you want to turn them into Christmas tree decorations, use a skewer to pierce a hole in the top of your shape before you bake the biscuits. It may close a little while it is baking so remake the hole again when the biscuits come out of the oven, while they are still soft (they will firm up as they cool).

Download the recipe

Sam is a food historian, supper club host and author of First Catch Your Gingerbread sambilton.com

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